Wildlife Holidays

One of our Leisure Consultants, Mel Broughton, has recently returned from an unforgettable adventure across Botswana. Here, she shares her experiences with you...

Botswana is one of a kind in our over-developed world – it is one of the best wilderness and wildlife areas of the African continent. 38 percent of its total land is devoted to national parks, reserves and wildlife management areas – most of which is unfenced, allowing animals to rightfully roam wild and free.

Only here can one experience the outstanding beauty of the world’s largest inland Delta – the Okavango; the world’s second largestgame reserve – the Central Kalahari Game Reserve; the isolation and other-worldliness of the Makgadikgadi – uninhabited pans the size of Portugal; and the astoundingly prolific wildlife of Chobe National Park.

At first glance, the options for a safari in Botswana can appear bewildering. Experiencing any destination is always the best way to be able to understand it, and therefore advise on holiday options. Recognising this, each year Botswana Tourism Organisation takes a small group of travel agents to see the wonders of this fantastic country, and on the 3^rd of October 2011, I was one of the lucky ones heading off!

Our African adventure began in Johannesburg, where we connected onto our Air Botswana flight of one hour to Sir Seretse International, Gabarone. On arrival, we were met and transferred to the Walmont Hotel at the Grand Palm Resort, and greeted with welcome drinks and lunch at La Boma Bar, accompanied by the many baboons that roamed the well-kept lawns. After a resort inspection including the three-star Deermont property and very impressive conferencing facilities, we enjoyed an international buffet dinner in the Mokolwane Bistro.

Our second day in Botswana started with an escorted city tour of Gabarone, including the Houses of Parliament, Houses of Chiefs, the National Museum, and the statue of the Three Chiefs – KhamaIII, Sebele I and Bathoen I.

Next, we joined our charter service with Flying Missions to Limpopo Valley Airfield, the gateway to Northern Tuli Game Reserve, and the start of our safari experiences!

With less than ten seats, this aircraft was a complete contrast to that which bought us into the country, and the view from the window was spectacular – amazing views across flat lands dotted with dried up river beds, and the odd flow of water.

At the airfield, we were met by our guides from Tuli Safari Lodge and transferred by open-sided vehicle to our accommodation seeing impala, springbok and kudu enroute. We were greeted with a beautiful lunch served out on the lawn of Tuli Safari Lodge, surrounded by monkeys, warthogs and antelope.

That afternoon, we took a leisurely game drive through Northern Tuli Game Reserve to the local village of Motlhabeneng, where we visited a local primary school and looked in on their lessons. At the end of their school day, we then spent time talking with the children, and they performed songs for us - it was an experience that I shall never forget. Next we visited a basket maker’s home and were taught how the villagers weave various items from la-la palm leaves, which they then sell to make a living.

An evening game drive back through the Northern Tuli Game Reserve saw elephant and giraffe, and we stopped for our first sundowners of the trip.

Northern Tuli is one of the largest privately owned game reserves in Southern Africa, which means that game drives are not restricted to daylight hours, and off-roading is permitted. As a result of this, and thanks to the expertise of our wonderful guide Simon, we were lucky enough to find a beautiful leopard fast asleep slightly off the road back to Tuli Safari Lodge, nestled in a hollow in the ground. Our vehicle crept up slowly so as not to disturb the elusive cat, and we sat and watched in silence as he gradually woke, stretched and yawned, showing us his teeth! It was a really wonderful encounter.

Back at camp, we were served a delicious barbeque dinner and entertained by the Tuli Choir, who perform song and dance to raise funds for their healthcare.

Our third day in Botswana begun with an early morning game drive, during which we saw zebra, wilderbeest, giraffe, ostrich, impala, springbok, waterbok, kudu, mongoose, and elephant. Our drive took us to the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers, which is the also the meeting place of Zimbabwe, South Africa and Botswana.

After high tea and traditional choir entertainment at Tuli, we set off on our afternoon safari to see much more wildlife. Sundowners were served at De Beers Lookout, where we admired a gorgeous sunset.

Shortly after getting back on the road, Simon was radioed by a fellow guide, advising him of a cheetah sighting about a 40 minute journey from where we were. We held on tight and raced off in pursuit of the cats – the adrenaline rush of tearing through the bush by moonlight was incredible. Soon after, we came across the two stunning cheetah going about their business, and we sat and watched on in complete awe.

After this, it was off to the spotted hyena den to see a clan of six, including a tiny hyena pup, tucking into another predator’s leftovers that they had scavenged and laughing their distinctive laughs.

For our final night at Tuli Safari Lodge, the staff surprised us with a superb dinner arrangement set up out in the bush, 20 minutes away from the lodge, where they had prepared a warming camp fire for our arrival, and entertained us with live singing and dancing.

Our last morning in the Northern Tuli Game Reserve started with a leisurely bush walk. As well as learning a great deal about the flora and fauna, and wildlife, the walk provided great photo opportunities and there was an exciting element of danger felt when strolling through the bush, although we were in very safe and experienced hands, and Simon was armed!

We spotted a dazzle of zebra and a journey of giraffe during our walk, and our last stretch was up to Breakfast Hill, where we were met with the most breathtaking views, and hardworking Tuli Staff had prepared some delicious food.

After our farewells, we left Limpopo Valley Airfield on our Moremi Air light aircraft flight to Kwando’s Tau Pan, in the Central Kalahari Desert....

The Kalahari is very flat with long yellow grass, and more trees and vegetation that in Tuli, and the roads were sand tracks rather than mud.

During our orientation of Tau Pan camp on arrival, the guides advised of a sighting of a pride of lions earlier in the day, with a recent kill.

On our game drive later in the afternoon, we headed straight off to find them. We spotted an oryx and a very distressed giraffe, who was swishing his tail and looking fast around.

Our guide, Alf, explained that this indicates danger nearby, so we should follow the direction of the giraffe's gaze, as that is where the pride are likely to be. Sure enough, we spotted them almost immediately after, feasting under a tree. The six cubs in the pride were tucking into a baby giraffe, with the two mums nearby, relaxing in the shade after their kill. The males of the pride were no-where to be seen – Alf said they were likely to be marking their territory elsewhere in the Central Kalahari.

We watched the cats enjoy their feast for a while longer, and then enjoyed our sundowners in the desert.

Back at Tau Pan, we shared our bush experiences around the camp fire before dinner. The guides, who dined with us, told the group that one of the male lions from the pride had been sighted next to room 4 on the way to dinner.

Fortunately, he was very good natured and just strolled past the guide and continued on his journey. From the direction he was travelling, the guides expected the pride to be meeting down at the waterhole opposite the lodge the following morning.

Tau Pan, like the majority of lodges in Botswana, is unfenced, so all guests are escorted to their rooms after dark by the guides. As I was drifting off to sleep on my first night in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, I could hear a clan of hyenas barking and laughing. This must have disturbed a sleeping lion as well as me, as suddenly a deafening roar came from the open desert in front of my room – so loud that the lion could have almost been in the bed next to me!

It was such as surreal experience, and most definitely one of my highlights of my time in Botswana.

When we met at the campfire for early morning breakfast the following day, we heard that the pride had been sighted down at the waterhole. When our vehicle stopped, we found the two mums and six cubs relaxing in the shade just a few metres away. There were also the two black-maned Kalahari lions resting just around the other side of the bushes. Their manes are used for protection when fighting with other lions for territory. You can tell the age of a male lion by looking at their noses – the darker the nose, the older they are.

We then took a walk with the Kalahari Bushmen, and learnt about the skills they use for survival, including creating a noose for guinea fowl, birds and chickens, and a walk-through trap for antelope that catches them by the leg. Scoupa, our bushman, also demonstrated how he lights a fire in just a couple of minutes, and sources drink from water tuber which he digs up from deep under the sands of the Kalahari, and then shaves and squeezes the liquid from.

Scoupa’s hunting bag was made from the skin of a springbok, and contained all of his hunting tools, equipment and a musical instrument for entertainment.

On our game drive back to camp, we came across a very vicious-looking honey badger. Whilst almost blind, they have an excellent sense of smell, and their teeth are so dangerous that even the lions steer clear of them!

After lunch, our afternoon game drive bought us back to the waterhole, where we watched the lion cubs play and suckle on their mums, while the dads slept in the sun.

On the morning of our sixth day, we travelled out to Sunday Pan and drove slowly around. We watched on as a group of oryx drunk from the watering hole, and we visited a self-catering local campsite for drinks.

Our guide was radioed by the camp to advise our departure flight from Tau Pan was leaving earlier than originally scheduled, so after a light lunch, we headed for Tau Pan air strip for our flight with Moremi Air to Nxai Pan National Park, part of the great Makgadikgadi complex.

As we climbed onboard, I noticed that there was a spare seat next to the pilot, so asked if I could join him in the cockpit, and he was very happy for me to do so. Sitting next to the captain as we flew over the Kalahari Desert with the sun beaming through the window is a memory I will never forget...

After arriving into Nxai Pan air strip and an orientation of the lodge, our afternoon game drive took us to a herd of elephants enroute to the waterhole. We met them there as the sun began its descent, and watched on quietly as they enjoyed their drink and a refreshing dip.

Our first morning in Nxai Pan started with a hearty breakfast to set us up for our full day of adventure, and we then we set off from the lodge at 6:30am to the Baines Baobabs.


The seven huge baobab trees, originally known as the Sleeping Sisters, are named afterthe 19th century explorer Thomas Baines, are set on an island surrounded by the white Kudiakam Pan, roughly 30kms from the Nxai Pan National Park entrance. The explorer stood in the same spot we did over one hundred years ago and painted this otherworldly scene, and it has remained exactly the same ever since.

Next, we drove to the banks of the River Boteti, which is now in flow after thirty years of being dry, and provided a stunning contrast to the flat dry plains of the Central Kalahari.

Dazzles of zebra joined us in their hundreds, along with wildebeest and a couple of thirsty elephants, as we travelled along the waterfront. We stopped for a wonderful picnic lunch on the river bank and absorbed the spectacular surroundings.

As the temperature continued to rise into the afternoon, we enjoyed a slow game drive back through Nxai Pan National Park. A large journey of giraffe greeted us enroute, along with an ostrich family consisting of mum, dad and thirteen chicks – all of whom strolled along the middle of the track, completely oblivious to the fact we were trying to pass!

Soon, our final day in Nxai Pan begun to draw in, so we visited the watering hole to see what animals were enjoying a sundowner. We found a lonely young elephant tucking into to a drink, and after watching the beautiful African sun disappear beyond the horizon, we made our tracks back to camp. On our journey, we came across the rest of the herd, including their young, enroute to the watering hole. The last of the sunset and the beginning of the moonlight on their rough skin created a wonderful sight.

An African-spotted eagle owl welcomed us back to the lodge, where we enjoyed another delicious dinner before sharing stories around the campfire.

The following morning, we visited the watering hole and found elephant, springbok, ostrich, guinea fowl and wildebeest, all taking turnsto drink. Our guide heard of a cheetah sighting over the radio, so we cruised around the pan in search of them.

Soon after, we caught up with a female cheetah and her two cubs, and they appeared to be on the hunt, as a jackal was stalking behind them (jackals scavenge off of the remains of other predator’s kills.) The mother seemed to be focussed on her mission of finding lunch for the family, although the cubs were less interested – taking regular rest breaks to chill out under the sun.

Later that day, our Moremi Air flight of 50 minutes took us up to the Okavango Delta, which was a strange sight as we hadn’t seen as much water for over a week. After our familiarisation of Ker and Downey’s Shinde camp, we set off on our first game drive in the Okavango, and found warthog, red leche, a variety of birds, and elephants with their two babies all gathered around the water hole. We then went to track two lions mating that the guides had spotted earlier in the day, and enjoyed sundowners in the Delta before a Marsh owl guided us back to camp for drinks around the fire and a delicious dinner.

With so much water in the Okavango, our morning begun with a leisurely boat cruise along the channels of the Delta. At a nesting site,we watched marabou and yellow-billed storks building nests and guarding their young, as hippos splashed in the water and crocodiles basked in the sun on the shore.

Our evening game drive bought a lot of sightings, including a rare striped jackal. As the sun set, we saw the full moon rising over the horizon – an amazing red disc filling the Delta with beauty.

As we were settling down for the night back at Shinde, a bull elephant wandered around the camp, tucking into leaves just beside our room.

The elephant was still in camp the following morning, enjoying more leaves from the treebeside the breakfast room. After enjoying ours, we took to the mokoros to experience the Delta from another perspective. Gliding silently through the channels of the Okavango, as the gentle waves lapped against the mokoro, we saw an array of birdlife and frogs.

We bid our farewells to Shinde Camp and flew onto Kasane, where we spent our final day in Botswana in Chobe National Park. We took a cruise along the Chobe River to see the huge number of elephant that call this area their home, watching them drink from the river.

As our final sunset of our time in Botswana disappeared behind Namibia, we returned to Mowana Safari Lodge for our last dinnertogether.

A visit to the Zambezi Queen concluded our visit to Botswana perfectly, as we toured around the luxury 45 metre cruise. With 10 suites and 4 master suites, the Zambezi Queen provides opulent 5-star comfort, and the opportunity to view the wildlife of Chobe National Park whilst dining on the third-floor restaurant.

All too soon, our experience was over and we were on our way back to London – with so many memories to look fondly back at, and fantastic photos to share. 

If you like variety on holiday there is nowhere better  - Ecuador has so much to offer

From its magical coast, with virgin beaches and fishing villages, with a backdrop of banana plantations, to the majestic Andes and its historic cities, to the Amazon jungle, it is an explorer's paradise.

And then there are the Galapagos Islands with the earth's second largest marine nature reserve and the naturalist's dream of life almost completely unaffected by man's presence, as described in the UK by the BBC's recent excellent documentary series.

Ecuador is a sparsely populated country of 13 million people on the North West coast of South America, about 600 miles long by 500 miles wide.

It has 14 different indigenous cultures, it is self-supporting in food, with a mouth-watering range of fruit, vegetables and fish resulting in an exotic variety of national dishes.

The main cities are sophisticated metropolises with a great deal to see for the ardent historian.  Much remains of the Spanish colonial architecture, whilst the people take great pride in their current democratic independence.

Very efficient tour operators and highly qualified very able English speaking tour guides make travel easy for those who wish to avoid the stress of independent travel. For example, we work through Distinctive Americas with Klein Tours - a local ground tour operator - who arrange tours of the Andes and the Amazon, allowing the traveller to savour the enormous variety of local flora and fauna in the mountains while seeing the volcanoes and crater lakes, meeting country people and seeing their local customs and how they make their traditional products. One can experience the life of the Hacienda owner by over-nighting in beautiful old houses in exotic gardens, tastefully modernised for the traveller, go horse back riding and take your chance in spotting wolves and the local spectacle bears.

As for the main cities, Klein Tours guided tour of Quito, for example, allows one to see the grandeur of the Spanish colonial buildings and the many fine churches as well breathtaking views of the city (9,500 above sea level) surrounded by majestic mountains - the famous Cotopaxi snow capped active volcano is only 40 miles away - while learning something of the Spanish conquest of South America and the 19th century fight for independence.

A short flight (2 hours) from Quito via Guayaquil on the coast takes one to the Galapagos Islands where it is possible to join a 4 or 7 day cruise of the islands, accompanied by local guides who are expert naturalists and linguists. The cruise ships take you from one island to another, mostly at night, enabling you to see much of the indigenous wild life, some of which is unique to each island.  The guides help you to identify the unique species and explain their individual characteristics. Passengers have a couple of opportunities to go snorkelling, and it is highly rewarding - one cannot often get the chance to swim with giant turtles, marine iguanas and sea lions. The way in which the wildlife totally ignore the parties of visitors has to be experienced to be believed! The male blue-footed booby will display to attract a female, quite unconcerned that a party of 15 tourists are within 3 metres of them, and two male land iguanas will similarly dispute their territorial border, ignoring the lenses of 15 cameras only a few meters across an open pathway from them. 

The cruise ships are limited in number, there being only four with up to some 100 berths and others of 20 to 30 berths.  They provide excellent facilities and cuisine.  The attention to the environment and to the safety and comfort of passengers is a high priority for the crew who are all remarkable for their friendly helpfulness and professionalism. 

During the four-day cruise one lands on five islands for which the transfers by the ships' own zodiacs are quick and expertly handled. Even elderly passengers feel entirely safe although at times the water can be reasonably choppy.

Of course, it is tempting, if time allows, to add a trip to Peru to see the sights of Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca and the other wonders of the lost Inca civilisation while in South America. This is relatively easy to do and our consultants will be pleased to discuss with you, these and any other options you may have in mind.

 

WPJ

31/05/09

When we told people that we were heading off to Iceland we were met with some very puzzled looks. Why, we were asked, were we not spending an August weekend enjoying the summer somewhere in the sun? However, not only is Iceland actually not as cold as its name implies (average max July temp 11C, and winters warmer than New York), but it is also one of the most fascinating countries in the world, with such a wealth of natural wonders, it could be described as the ultimate nature trip.

As there are so many places to see, having only four days to make the most of, it was very difficult to decide which excursions to choose. With the help of Medway Travel who gave us a great selection of tours, we picked the ones we felt would give us the broadest view of the country in the short time we had.

Our first sight of Iceland certainly did not disappoint us - as we flew over the country we could see the huge Vatnajokull glacier spread out beneath us, and then as we came closer to the airport, the landscape changed as miles and miles of eerie lava strewn plains came into view.

We spent our first evening exploring the centre of Reykjavik, which was only a couple of minutes from our comfortable hotel. For such a cosmopolitan city, it has a surprisingly intimate feel, probably as not only is it very small for a capital city, but due to frequent earthquakes (on average once every eight minutes - although they are not big enough to be felt very often) there are no high buildings, The shops were great to browse around - but due to the very high prices, our shopping was more of the window variety!

The high prices extend to all goods, as just about everything is imported. Fortunately we had been warned about the high costs of eating out, and especially about the exorbitant price of alcohol, so it didn't come as too much of a shock! It does make you savour every mouthful though!

A lot of fish is eaten in Iceland, as is lamb, which is extremely tasty since the sheep spend their lives roaming the countryside eating mountain thyme. We tried some of the traditional delicacies too, such as puffin and skyr (a dessert made with skimmed milk), but we would have drawn the line at trying 'rotten shark' had we come across this Icelandic speciality!

On our first full day, we set off for a morning's whale watching trip, which was fantastic. We had a minibus collect us promptly from the hotel and take us to the harbour, where we had time for a short visit to the whale centre, before we set off into the bay. Our guide was excellent and so enthusiastic, and although it was very chilly on the deck, we were able to warm up inside with a drink and sit on the comfortable seats to watch the action from the huge windows. Even though we were told there were no guarantees of sightings, we saw so many minke whales that we stopped counting!

In the evening we went on the 'Golden Circle Tour', driven by a most knowledgeable and interesting guide. This 'must -do' trip for visitors to Reykjavik includes one of the most powerful waterfalls in Iceland, the fissure scarred plain at Pingvellir where the American and European tectonic plates are diverging, and the amazing geyser at Geysir which spouts every seven or eight minutes, so there is no chance for disappointment!

The following day we had booked a trip to Porsmork ('Thors's Forest'), one of Iceland's most spectacular, but inaccessible wilderness areas, surrounded by three glaciers and only possible to reach by oversized 4 wheel drive vehicles. As we held our breath, our driver managed very skilfully to navigate the many rivers we had to cross, as we made our way up the valley, where we were rewarded with fantastic views of the glaciers, fields of wild flowers and icebergs breaking off into a stunning glacial lagoon. Our group, again of only six, enjoyed several walks where we were shown hidden waterfalls and lava strewn ice hills.

Of course, we couldn't have left without experiencing a dip in the mineral rich waters of the Blue Lagoon. As this was situated just a short distance from the airport, we decided to spend our last morning here before catching our flight home. Bathing in the geothermally heated lagoon surrounded by moss covered lava fields was such as surreal experience we felt as though we could have been on a different planet altogether!

Medway Travel was very thorough and helpful in researching and organising the details of the various excursions; without their help we would have spent precious hours of our break investigating the trips available. However, our visit has merely whetted our appetite to return to, and learn more about, this extraordinary land of fire and ice.

One hour and twenty minutes flying from Buenos Aires you will find one of the Wonders of the Modern World. Iguaza Falls is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Iguazu River splits Argentina from Brazil and at points is some 1.5 kilometers wide. The falls line the rim of a crescent-shaped cliff about 2.5 miles long. Around 275 individual cascades and waterfalls plummet up to 269 feet into the gorge below. The thunderous roaring of Iguazu can be heard from miles away.

This stunning natural beauty has to be seen to be believed. Most tours recommend that you visit the Brazilian Side of the Falls first. This gives you a panoramic view of the falls. Your second visit should be on the Argentinean side of the falls where you can get really close to the cascading water. As the locals say 'On the Brazilian side you can see them, on the Argentinean side you feel them'.

After my flight I checked in to the Iguazu Grand Hotel, the only true 5 star hotel in the area. This is a stunning retreat with a triple swimming pool and spa facility. All rooms have either Garden or Pool Views and all have private balconies.

My first day was to visit the Brazilian Side of the falls. I was prepared for a lot of walking and having crossed the border into Brazil arrived at the National Park for the start of my walk. You should also be prepared to get a little wet as the spray from the falls, which creates masses of rainbows along the 2.5mile crescent, does create a bit of a shower in places.

The walking on this side of the falls is quite easy and on the way you will be accompanied by the local wildlife.

The Coati is a hungry and cheeky member of the Racoon family which will quite happily search through your bag for food if you bend down too close. Though not vicious you are advised not to feed them.

From this side the falls are awe inspiring. The cascades seem to go on and on.

There are two hotels on the Brazilian side at the falls, the first is the Sheraton. This is the only hotel to have a view of the falls and as such is expensive. The second hotel here is the Cataras Hotel. Both are four star properties.

It took a morning to see this side of the falls and after taking innumerable photographs returned to my hotel for an afternoon relax by the pool.

My second day was to experience the Argentinean side of the falls. The first stage of this is to take the Green Way through the forest to the train station.

This jungle walk is fascinating and you will find a profusion of birds and butterflies along the way.

The forest train then takes you on a slow journey through the forest to the Devils Throat Station. This is the largest and main part of the falls and is best seen first thing in the morning before the crowds of tourists arrive. From the train station there is a 1.5km walk across the Iguazu River. This you do on metal walkways above the river and these give you a chance to experience the wildlife that abounds in and around the river areas. The whole of the falls area is a genius in engineering with walkways that take you right up and above the falls

La Garganta del Diablo (the Devil's Throat) was made famous in the film 'The Mission' and is truly spectacular. The noise is immense as gallons of water thunder over the rocks into the abyss below.

You have the same walk back to the train station and again a short train journey back before taking the stunning Upper Level Walkway along the tops of the falls. Here you will experience the feel of the immense power of these falls. Butterflies, birds and flowers abound on the walk. Upon completion you take the Lower Level Walk again giving you a fantastic view of the falls as they cascade down onto the rocks below.

From the end of this walk you then have the option to join in the Iguazu Adventure. This is a speedboat ride to the head of the falls, but be warned - you will get wet. Here you are taken up to and into the falls for an original white knuckle ride after which you are whisked down river and eventually driven by truck back through the forest to the main station and restaurant, where you can change into something dry and enjoy a barbeque lunch.

If you wish to spend more time here there are trekking trails and safari rides that you can take into the jungle as well as an adventure camp for the kids.

Myself I felt it time to head back to my hotel and sample the delights of the spa before an enjoyable meal in the restaurant and evening beneath the southern cross and milky way.

Superb.

Stephen Cresswell - Medway Travel

I have just returned from a visit to this marvellous facility courtesy of Wildlife Worldwide and had to write to say what a fascinating and informative visit it was. Having never experienced staying in a Rain Forest before it was with some trepidation that I arrived at Iguazu airport ready for my experience.

After a two hour journey through the forest (this would normally be done by boat when water levels in the Iguazu River allow) I arrived at the Lodge to find a very warm welcome and was immediately taken to my cabin.

All cabins are double or triple occupancy (single occupancy is available on application) and have 24hour hot and cold water and showers. Electricity is available only between the hours of 6.30 to 7.30 in the morning and 6 and 11pm.

Walking down to your cabin you are immediately struck by the beauty of the flora, masses of striking butterflies and irds (tucans, parrots and hummingbirds).

After an excellent lunch, my first afternoon was a walk through the forest with one of the very knowledgeable guides who explained the layering of the forest in between pointing out the various flora and fauna that we encountered. Dinner in the evening was again an excellent experience.

The second day took the form of a float downstream from the lodge in an indian canoe to see the forest from the water. We encountered monkeys, kingfishers and eagles on route finally entering the Iguazu river (some 1.5km wide) and landing at one of the lodges' ports to take a steady walk back through the forest on a different trail, again encountering monkeys and many species of birds.

On my last day we walked down towards the swamp to see the Capybaras rebreeding station. The Capybaras is the biggest rodent in the world and can weigh up to 80 kilos. Although this mammal is not a threatened species, its population in the area has been decreased substantially due to hunting pressure. Finally I planted a Palmito tree as an aid to regenerating the forest.

The accommodation was very comfortable and staff very friendly. The food is prepared by local people and is exceptional - in fact better than many four star hotels.

I would recommend this facility to anyone looking for something a little different, someone interested in environmental issues, bird watchers, or plant enthusiasts. Special Interest groups can be accommodated and activities are flexible and can be organized to suit the requirements for the group.

This would certainly make an excellent add on to a visit to Buenos Aires. (See my reports on Buenos Aires and Iguazu Falls )

Stephen Cresswell, Medway Travel